Golden temple, Amritsar (Harmandir Sahib)

I once had the good fortune of attending a friend’s wedding in Punjab. I decided to visit the famous Sikh Golden temple at Amritsar. After an uneventful journey, I arrive at Vaneet’s house.

A few hours of sleep, and we are up at four the next morning. Vaneet’s sister Supreet, and a cousin, Rinku Bhaiji form the rest of the party. With the gentleman who drives the car, it makes four of us. The drive is quick, given the early hour. It takes us about an hour or so to reach Amritsar. We park at the designated spot, leave our footwear at the footwear stand, and enter. The brilliant sight of the pure gold dome of the Harmandir Saheb welcomes us. The gentle light of the early morning sun adds another layer of gold to the beautiful sight. The tiled floors freeze our bare feet, as we hurry inside.

As we step in, Supreet directs me to wash my feet in the lake that surrounds the temple. We walk down the few steps that lead inside the lake, and dip our feet. Strangely, it is not cold; on the contrary, it is slightly tepid. We sprinkle a handful of water on our head as a symbolic purification, and join the queue. The temple is an island, built in the middle of the lake. Bridges built at different points connect the devotees to the shrine.

All Sikh temples, known as Gurudwaras, have a dress code. Both men and women should cover their heads, and don traditional clothing. This rule is slightly relaxed in the case of little ones, but all must cover their head. We hitch our duppattas over our head, and join the crowd. There are several gentlemen who don turbans. However, those who do not sport the traditional Punjabi turban cover their head with their kerchiefs.

We make our way towards the counters. All Gurudwaras have free kitchens, called langar, which serves food to all those who visit. This practise dates back to the time of Guru Nanak, the founder of the Sikh faith. The purpose behind this is to ensure that nobody, irrespective of faith, caste or gender goes hungry. Pure vegetarian fare is served at the langar kitchens. It is customary to put your contribution in the pot, which will give a hungry person a meal. We purchase coupons, and get the receipt for it. The meals that are served are parshad. After collecting our receipts, we head on.

I am surprised to see that despite the presence of many, nobody jostles for space, or pushes around to reach the head of the queue. Everyone patiently shuffles along, murmuring prayers as they wait. As a result of this orderly movement of the crowds, the waiting period is short, and I take the time to admire the peaceful beauty of the Harmandir Saheb. Everyone, male or female, rich or poor, Hindu or Muslim, is equal in the eyes of the Lord. This universal inclusivity and sense of brotherhood is impressive.

We step inside the temple, where the revered Guru Granth Sahib is enshrined. In every Gurudwara, the Sikh holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib is worshipped. The faithful offer their obeisance to the holy book, which is placed on a raised platform, covered in richly embroidered cloth. The platform is supported by four small pillars and is covered on top. There are two attendants who gently fan the holy book with the venchamaram or the fluffy white feather fan.

The inside of the temple reverberates with the music of bhajans. We bow our heads before the Guru Granth Sahib, offer our prayers, and find a cosy little nook to settle down. Supreet opens a little book, and proceeds to say her prayers. I look around and observe the crowd. Everyone is in a state of prayer, and humbly bows their heads before the Guru Granth Sahib. The inside of the gurudwara reminds me of Mughal palaces. I am amused by this thought. There are small open balconies at strategic points.

After having our fill of worship, we take the flight of steps that lead out. Once outside, Supreet guides me to the steps that lead to the lake beside the temple. We dip our cupped palms in the water, and draw out handfuls of water. I imitate her in sipping the water, and sprinkling it on my head. This is the parshad or teertham, the water in which our sisters and brothers wash their feet in. This practise can cause unease in a person who is not familiar with the Sikh faith.

Having completed our darshan, we walk towards the exit. As we take the steps that lead us out, I turn around for a last glimpse of the Golden Temple. When will I get to prostrate before the Holy Book at the Harmandir Saheb again? I turn away with an unwilling heart. The kitchen where the langar is cooked lies ahead. I ask Supreet if we can volunteer to roll the chappathis at the langar. Amma has told me that it is an honour to offer our culinary services at the langar. However, Supreet tells me that we are running short of time, and we have to be back at Jalandhar for the wedding festivities that are underway.

As the car turns onto the road, Supreet points out the road that leads to the historic Jalianwala Bagh. The goose bumps rise. I make up my mind to take another trip to Punjab, and pay my respects at the Jalianwala Bagh, the scene of a tragic massacre of innocents at the hands of a thoughtless and cruel General Dyer. I also spot a board that says ‘Wagah Border’. My resolve to return is redoubled, and I sit back and try to catch some sleep as we make our way back.

I will be back with my next post on a different devalayam. Until then, stay safe, and stay devout!