I once had the good fortune of attending a friend’s
wedding in Punjab. I decided to visit the famous Sikh Golden temple at
Amritsar. After an uneventful journey, I arrive at Vaneet’s house.
A few hours of sleep, and we are up at four the next
morning. Vaneet’s sister Supreet, and a cousin, Rinku Bhaiji form the rest of the party. With the gentleman who drives the
car, it makes four of us. The drive is quick, given the early hour. It takes us
about an hour or so to reach Amritsar. We park at the designated spot, leave
our footwear at the footwear stand, and enter. The brilliant sight of the pure
gold dome of the Harmandir Saheb welcomes us. The gentle light of the early
morning sun adds another layer of gold to the beautiful sight. The tiled floors
freeze our bare feet, as we hurry inside.
As we step in, Supreet directs me to wash my feet in
the lake that surrounds the temple. We walk down the few steps that lead inside
the lake, and dip our feet. Strangely, it is not cold; on the contrary, it is
slightly tepid. We sprinkle a handful of water on our head as a symbolic
purification, and join the queue. The temple is an island, built in the middle
of the lake. Bridges built at different points connect the devotees to the
shrine.
All Sikh temples, known as Gurudwaras, have a dress
code. Both men and women should cover their heads, and don traditional
clothing. This rule is slightly relaxed in the case of little ones, but all
must cover their head. We hitch our duppattas
over our head, and join the crowd. There are several gentlemen who don turbans.
However, those who do not sport the traditional Punjabi turban cover their head
with their kerchiefs.
We make our way towards the counters. All Gurudwaras
have free kitchens, called langar,
which serves food to all those who visit. This practise dates back to the time
of Guru Nanak, the founder of the Sikh faith. The purpose behind this is to
ensure that nobody, irrespective of faith, caste or gender goes hungry. Pure
vegetarian fare is served at the langar
kitchens. It is customary to put your contribution in the pot, which will give
a hungry person a meal. We purchase coupons, and get the receipt for it. The
meals that are served are parshad. After
collecting our receipts, we head on.
I am surprised to see that despite the presence of many,
nobody jostles for space, or pushes around to reach the head of the queue. Everyone
patiently shuffles along, murmuring prayers as they wait. As a result of this
orderly movement of the crowds, the waiting period is short, and I take the
time to admire the peaceful beauty of the Harmandir Saheb. Everyone, male or
female, rich or poor, Hindu or Muslim, is equal in the eyes of the Lord. This
universal inclusivity and sense of brotherhood is impressive.
We step inside the temple, where the revered Guru
Granth Sahib is enshrined. In every Gurudwara, the Sikh holy book, the Guru
Granth Sahib is worshipped. The faithful offer their obeisance to the holy
book, which is placed on a raised platform, covered in richly embroidered cloth.
The platform is supported by four small pillars and is covered on top. There
are two attendants who gently fan the holy book with the venchamaram or the fluffy white feather fan.
The inside of the temple reverberates with the music
of bhajans. We bow our heads before the Guru Granth Sahib, offer our prayers,
and find a cosy little nook to settle down. Supreet opens a little book, and
proceeds to say her prayers. I look around and observe the crowd. Everyone is
in a state of prayer, and humbly bows their heads before the Guru Granth Sahib.
The inside of the gurudwara reminds
me of Mughal palaces. I am amused by this thought. There are small open balconies
at strategic points.
After having our fill of worship, we take the flight
of steps that lead out. Once outside, Supreet guides me to the steps that lead
to the lake beside the temple. We dip our cupped palms in the water, and draw
out handfuls of water. I imitate her in sipping the water, and sprinkling it on
my head. This is the parshad or teertham, the water in which our sisters
and brothers wash their feet in. This practise can cause unease in a person who
is not familiar with the Sikh faith.
Having completed our darshan, we walk towards the
exit. As we take the steps that lead us out, I turn around for a last glimpse
of the Golden Temple. When will I get to prostrate before the Holy Book at the
Harmandir Saheb again? I turn away with an unwilling heart. The kitchen where
the langar is cooked lies ahead. I
ask Supreet if we can volunteer to roll the chappathis
at the langar. Amma has told me that it
is an honour to offer our culinary services at the langar. However, Supreet tells me that we are running short of
time, and we have to be back at Jalandhar for the wedding festivities that are
underway.
As the car turns onto the road, Supreet points out
the road that leads to the historic Jalianwala Bagh. The goose bumps rise. I
make up my mind to take another trip to Punjab, and pay my respects at the
Jalianwala Bagh, the scene of a tragic massacre of innocents at the hands of a
thoughtless and cruel General Dyer. I also spot a board that says ‘Wagah
Border’. My resolve to return is redoubled, and I sit back and try to catch
some sleep as we make our way back.
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