Venkateshwara temple, Tirupati

We get an opportunity to perform at Nada Neerajanam, the series of concerts held by the Sri Venkateshwara Bhakti Channel (SVBC), the official media channel of the Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanam (TTD). Performers are hosted by the TTD, and get special darshan of the Lord. We are an excited bunch of dancers and families that make our way to Tirumala hills. Packed into two mini vans, we leave Bangalore in the morning.

Somewhere in the border we break journey to fix a flat tyre. Suresh uncle engages us in an interesting discussion on the concept of Geethopadesham. He compares each player in the Geethopadesham to different aspects of human existence. The human body is the chariot, our intellect or the mind is reins of the chariot. The five horses that pull the chariot are our five senses (sight, hearing, smell, taste and touch). The Lord as the charioteer is the human soul. If a person is able to exercise restrain over the reins, that is the mind, we can control our senses, and direct it to travel on the path that we direct it. Soon, we are off again.

A result of the unscheduled breaks and the long stops is that we reach the foot of the Tirumala hills later than expected. We get off at the security check point, and haul our luggage through the scanners. This done, we begin the journey up the hill. There is a path laid out for the devout to climb the hill on foot. Meant for the brave and deeply faithful, I suppose! It takes the vans less than an hour to make it to the top.

The entire hill has been well laid out with roads, lighting, drinking water at several strategic places, free bus services to and from the many quarters till the temple threshold (where the queues begin), boards in different languages that indicate landmarks, and instructions for devotees. Golf carts are also provided to ferry older and handicapped devotees. The handicapped are given special darshan. 

There are also amenities provided to the devotees as they wait in the queue for darshan, which can take several hours. The facilities that the TTD has laid out for the devotees of the Lord are impressive.

Image courtesy - Adityamadhav83 via Wikimedia Commons

The Venkateshwara temple has a Hindus-only rule, however, in a huge board; the temple authorities announce a concession. People from any faith, who believe in Lord Venkateshwara, and want to visit him, can do so if they submit an affidavit stating the supremacy of the Lord, and their faith in him. I find this to be a fair exchange, considering the strict rule enforced by many temples. Certainly there will be people born in different faiths and are devotees of Hindu deities. 

Devotees are to observe a strict dress code. Women can wear saris, salwars, or langa davani, but must wear dupattas. Men can wear dhotis or formal pants with formal shirts. 

At three forty-five the next morning, a vehicle arrives to pick us up for darshan. We are dropped off at the entrance, where the routine security checks are held. This done, we head to the waiting room after criss-crossing through a couple of lines. The waiting room is a longish covered area, with several chairs arranged systematically. Our company include VIPs and their families. When there is a break in the regular darshan, we are called. The entire lot in the room are heralded towards the sanctum sanctorum. We enter the huge main doors, cross the dwaja sthamba, and enter the temple. There are a few people ahead of us, and I realise that people are let inside in batches.

We step in, and wait for our turn. The Lord is screened with a curtain. So after each batch of devotees get darshan, the Lord is curtained off, and the group moves on. A gentleman announces to the devotees to ‘please see Swami,’ and to put purdah for Swami when the darshan time is up. It is our turn, and we come close to the entrance of the garbha gudi for our darshan. The Lord is only a few feet ahead of us. 

The Lord Venkateshwara stands larger than life before us. His tall stature is decked with ornaments. The most noteworthy feature on his face is the thick naamam, which is a Vaishnavite symbol. Two thick white vertical stripes on his forehead come down till the bridge of his nose. A huge crown covers his head. The yagnopaveedam hangs across his left shoulder. A spotless white dhoti is draped on him, forming the main garment. The Lord’s left arm is placed on his waist, and his right arm is close to his side. His right hand is extended in the varada (granter of boons) gesture, with his palm turned downwards, and facing his devotees. We stand awestruck before him, our palms folded.

Image courtesy - Karsolene via Wikimedia Commons

The gentleman announces purdah for Swami, and we are herded out. The enormous feeling of peace and the power of the Lord is still vibrating in my mind. We step out, and place our offerings in the hundi a little away from the sanctum and make our way back to our rooms. We have all day ahead of us to prepare for the recital in the evening. By God’s grace, we have a good run at our recital, in front of a huge crowd.

I hope you enjoyed this account of the Lord of the seven hills. I will see you next week when I take you to our next devalayam. Stay safe, and stay devout!