Sri Krishna temple, Udupi – part one

Udupi, south Karnataka, lies in the lap of lush greenery. Think of Udupi, and the mind conjures up images of beaches, great food, and of course Lord Krishna! The famed Udupi Krishna matha is said to have been established by Guru Madhwacharya. Madhwacharya propagated the dwaitha (dual) philosophy, which maintains that the individual soul is separate from the Supreme soul.

A trip to Udupi is incomplete without a visit to the matha, and I make a trip there exclusively to pray at the temple. Having spent a few years there, I am familiar with the city and the temple. The temple, known locally as Krishna matha, is located close to the city bus stand. It is a short walk away, and the friendly locals are happy to guide you.

I will be splitting this narrative into two parts, one for the Krishna matha, and one for the other shrines outside.

The temple is located in the midst of what is called Car Street or Chariot Street. One will have to park vehicles a little away and walk the last few feet. The streets that lead to Car Street are narrow and lined by shops that are almost falling onto the street. 

The kanaka Gopura outside

As the temple comes into view the kanaka gopura welcomes you. Just below the gopura is the famed Kanakana kindi. Legend says that Saint Kanaka dasa, a Krishna devotee was not allowed inside the temple due to his low caste. Back then, only the upper caste Brahmins were permitted inside temples. The distraught Kanaka dasa stood near the wall and poured out his misery in a song he composed (look up Bagilana theredu seveyana kodu Hariye). The Lord was so touched; he broke the compound wall, and turned 180 degrees to give darshan to his pious devotee.

Kanaka dasa's window

Since then, devotees should view the Lord through Kanaka dasa’s window and only then enter the temple. We go ahead and keep our footwear at the stand, wash our feet at the taps and go in. A board near the entrance states that the temple permits only Hindu devotees inside.

We enter the temple from a door behind the murthy. The Lord sits behind yet another window with nine small openings. We view the Lord through each of the opening, which symbolises the nine planets. Above this window is a stone carving of Mahavishnu sleeping on Lord Anantha, with Lakshmi Devi at his feet. The Lord is worshipped as a small child here. He holds a kadagola (a wooden stick used traditionally to churn butter from buttermilk) in his right hand. Lord Anantha the serpent stands guard over him. 

There is an interesting legend behind Lord Krishna’s murthy. It is said that the Lord of Brindavan’s murthy was so deeply covered with sandalwood paste that it looked like a ball of sandalwood. A merchant took this sandalwood with him on his ship, which headed to Malpe port (in Mangalore). Madhwacharya divined that the murthy was hidden in the sandalwood, and asked the merchant for it. The Acharya then cleared the murthy of the sandalwood and set up a temple for the Lord.

There is a namaskara mandapam in front of the sanctum sanctorum. Thirtham and chandanam prasada is distributed nearby. Behind the namaskara mandapam is a raised corridor where other deities are worshipped. This corridor is right in front of Kanakana kindi. Lord Garuda, Mahavishnu's vehicle and Hanumantha, Rama’s dasa are worshipped on either end of the corridor, facing each other. Devotees can sit on the floor on this corridor. 

We walk on and pay our respects to Balarama, who is seated behind Krishna. We then exit the main temple, and walk ahead. There is a narrow passage that leads us to a hall, where Hanuman is revered.

We walk ahead to prostrate before Subramanya. There is a dining hall right behind this shrine, where all devotees are given free meals. We continue on the path to bow before the Navagrahas. There are curio shops here where you can buy pictures, murthis, and the like. There is a goshala or cow shed ahead. We peep in to spot cows relaxing inside. Having completed darshan of the Krishna temple, we step out. There is an open auditorium where cultural activities and religious talks are held. There is something going on every evening. This evening, a prabhassanam, or spiritual talk is going on.

We now head out to visit the other deities in the vicinity of Chariot Street. I will post the second part of the Udupi temple soon. Stay tuned! 

Part 2